Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and travelers equally swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, UNESCO honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a exclusive roster of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it becomes part of a global network of cities urban centers across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "demonstrates its profound gastronomic legacy and dynamic food ecosystem," as stated by a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this historic city arrives as no surprise to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, bustling, and vibrant city – the capital of India's largest state – is finally in the spotlight for what has consistently shaped its essence: an profound love for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a constant dialogue from waking up until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, refined, and taken to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of food experimentation, fusing Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases local ingredients but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on many street corners, there are little shops and kiosks – hidden treasures that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a simple joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and involved. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but say that their younger generation are unwilling to learn the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will encourage more people around the world to learn these stories and visit the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
